Old Dubai: Al Fahidi, Dubai Creek & the City's Hidden Historic Quarter

Old Dubai — the Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood and Dubai Creek waterfront — is the antithesis of the gleaming towers of Sheikh Zayed Road: a preserved quarter of coral-and-gypsum wind-tower houses, traditional wooden dhows, and spice and gold souks that reveal the trading city Dubai was for centuries before oil. Al Fahidi (formerly Bastakiya) is the most atmospheric historic district — 50 traditional courtyard houses from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, their distinctive wind towers (barjeel) funnelling breezes down into interior rooms, converted into galleries, cafes, and the excellent Dubai Museum. The Abra water taxi crossing of Dubai Creek (1 AED per journey) is the most authentic transport experience in Dubai — a five-minute wooden boat crossing between Deira and Bur Dubai, unchanged for 100 years. Deira's Gold Souk (10 tonnes of gold on display at any time) and Spice Souk (saffron, frankincense, and cardamom sold from open sacks) are the trading heart of old Dubai. The Friday antique and book market at Al Fahidi is the best cultural event in the city for those seeking the Dubai beneath the glamour.